Trip to Hampi

Isha arrived about 2 weeks ago. She has been enjoying the Expat Lifestyle, including visiting 5 star restaurants for brunch, going out to dinner and clubs with other expats, etc. We wanted to make sure she got a feel of the real India as well. So we decided to visit Hampi. Not only would we visit the location of part of the Ramayana, and a beautiful location, but we would get there by typical Indian transportation--Train, specifically the Hampi Express. The train ticket website was not working for Cindy, maybe because the train was already pretty full, so I asked the assistance of someone from work, who has connections at the train station. She was able to get us tickets. It took a few days to get them because of the complications of going through her contact, but we got them. 2nd AC, sleeper. When we got the tickets, only the return had actual seat numbers on the tickets (for 3 of us). The fourth return and all of the outbound were notated as reserved, but no seat number given. I double checked that we actually would get seats, and was assured several times that we would, and we did.... but only after a bit of an adventure.

We were expecting that we would have to sort out where we would be sitting, so we got Manju to take us to the train station early. It wasn't as busy as I was expecting it to be, but I think we came in the side entrance and arrived. We got to the train at 9:45, and it was scheduled to leave at 10:30. We found our names on a sheet of paper posted on the side of our car, but again no seat numbers. We were told to wait for the conductor, who should arrive at 10:15. He did. So, along with about 20 others, we asked him for seats. He then told us that the train was full, and no waitlist seats can be allocated. We didn't have waitlist status (WL) on our tickets, but RAC. So we asked Manju to talk to him. Manju then tells me that we should get in 2nd class (about 3 cars down) and take seats, we can then negotiate with the conductor after the train leaves. So off we went. Manju also suggested how much I should give him in baksheesh to get good seats.

The car we first got on was pretty nice. There were sheets and pillows being distributed to all the berths. Although the berths were 6 to a compartment, with blue vinyl covers, they looked clean if very used. Opposite each berth, there were an additional 2 berths running along the corridor. This is the 2nd AC section. The section we ended up in (2nd Class) is not quite so nice. It is still fairly clean looking, but there are no sheets and pillows. One can definitely smell urine. It was stronger when the car was stationary. I'm not sure if it came from the fact that the toilets open onto the tracks, or if there was just a strong smell in the car. Once the car was moving, with the open windows, the smell went away.

Well we started off, and some people came along at the next stop. They had the seats(well berths really as it is a sleeper) Cindy and I were in, so we had to stand. Cindy got another berth and lay down. I went to go find the conductor. By now it was about 12:00 and he has made it through 1st class, and down into 2nd AC. He told me 'there is a heavy rush' and to have patience. I backed off a bit, and then notice that he was situating someone else in 2nd AC in an empty berth. So I approached again. He showed me 2 berths and told me to get Cindy. The car is very dark by now as most people are already sleeping, so I quietly went back to the 2nd class car to find her.. I sent Cindy and Anna off to take the 2 berths, and took the one Anna was squatting in for myself. Someone was obviously upset, but I told him that the conductor sent us down here to wait, so we would deal with it when he arrives. Then the conductor came and got me out of the bunk and sent me to wait by Cindy. I had to carry Anna's purse, backpack and two suitcases with me, not easy in a dark moving train. I was a bit worried about Isha all alone there, but figured I could go find her later once we sorted out the seating. About 5 mins later she showed up where I was waiting by Cindy. Then the conductor showed up about 10 mins later. He informed me there is no space, 'but he will help me out' (for a fee of course). By this time I was pretty tired and grumpy. All I really wanted to do is get some sleep.

Isha and I followed him to a spot where there is a seat which can be converted to a sleeper. He sat down there, and he wanted something for his efforts. I give him what Manju suggested, and he was not satisfied. I need to add 50% to make him happy. Then he sets it up for Isha, and I expected that I would need to share or something. He told her that she was getting "his spot" which I don't really belive. I figured out later it was a regularly numbered berth. He told me to come with him. So I followed to the next car, which was 1 step up from 2nd AC, I don't know if it is 1st AC or not, but ok, the berths have individual curtains. He walked all the way to the end of the car,pulled back a curtain to one of the berth areas, woke up some lady and asked her something. I couldn't tell what he asked as it was either in Hindi or one of the local languages. I thought it was a bit rude to wake her up, but it was apparent he had a purpose. She replied, and then we walked 1/2 way back down the car. By this point I'm wondering what is going on as I don't see any open berths. He woke up a man sleeping in one of the berths along the corridor, and told him to join the woman (or so I assume, as he scampered off very quickly to where the woman was sleeping). Now I had a berth as well. Our stuff was all with Cindy and Anna, and I didn't dare leave my berth for fear he would give it to someone else. It was by now almost 2am. So I tried to go to sleep, laughing from the absurdity of it all.

In the end, we all got to sleep in our own berths, in an air-conditioned car. This is not necessary at this time of year, but nice as it keeps the mosquitos down. I did get bitten when we were in the non-AC car one time. About 5 am, I woke up as we stopped somewhere along the way. It was getting light. I knew that we don't need to get out till 7 as I had asked the conductor about the arrival time. Unfortunately Cindy and the others didn't know. I guess Cindy tried to call me a couple of times, and sent me SMS messages, but for some reason I didn't have coverage even though she did and we are on the same operator. I later turned off my phone and back on, then it worked. So by the time she did find me, or maybe I found her, I dont' remember, she was a bit irritated. I suspect I was a bit irratable too, having had just a few hours sleep. We figured out where the right stop was, and got off all ok, then we had to find our driver. He was supposed to meet us outside the AC section of the train, but he was by the exit. Unfortunately we followed the main stream of people out of the side exit to the parking lot. We waited a few mins and then he found us, in the mean time we were harrassed by several rickshaw drivers wanting to take us to the Hotel Maligi. I'm afraid I wasn''t too nice to them, but oh well. We got there ok, and checked in. I'll tell more about Hampi in the next post.