Monday, March 31, 2008

More impressions of Goa

Things I really liked were:

1) The colors. Everything was vivid. Houses were bright colors. Flowers were bright colors. Even just the general landscape was bright. 20080323 Goa 064 I especially liked the way this ice cream vendor's bright red cart contrasted with the rice growing in the paddy right near the temple we visited the second (and third) day we were there. The temple itself was a combination of stark white, and bright colors. For example there were pictures all around the tower outside the temple. I captured one of them here.20080323 Goa 046

2) The beaches and wildlife, and no I didn't mean the crazy Russians. Although there was a lot of evidence of many Russians visiting Goa, 20080323 Goa 010 we really only ran into them at the buffet, or around the pool at the hotel. It was funny to try to read the signs and see how much of it was directly english words spelled in Cyrillic (ie Sunset), and how much was actually Russian. But back to the wildlife. Birds everywhere. You saw the egrets (or herons) in the last post. There were also smaller birds, and many kinds of shore birds. 20080323 Goa 020 There were also Turtles, Injured turtlethough the one we saw looked like it was sick or injured. 20080323 Goa 057One lizard made itself known, and we also saw some geckos in the room. And of course the lounge lizards (related to the couch potato) found around the pool stretched out on their striped towels... And then there were the not so nice monopods who came out every night when it was damper and cooler. They even snuck into our room. Slugs!!! Slugs were everywhere

3) The churches.
We didn't get to go into any of them, as the ones we did try to see were closed due to Easter week celebrations, but the variety of shapes and designs was beautiful. It might even be tempting to go back and just take a few days photographing all the churches I could find, but then I'd probably have to be a better photographer with a better camera. As it is, I only captured a couple....Old Goa Bom Jesus Church This one had a particularly interesting door on the side, with this "window" in it. 20080323 Goa 050 Then there was the large white church in Panjim which I caught through the window of the car as we drove out of town after doing some shopping. You'll have to find the rest of the pictures on Flickr.

4) The food.
We ate a great Goan Fish meal, fresh fish from their own fishing boat, we got to pick the one we wanted from a variety they had on hand. The restaurant was called Joecons, and the ambiance was wonderful, and the food Excellent. They Filleted the fish, and we got some in a spicy Goan Red Masala, and some grilled with butter and Garlic for she who wanted less spicy. Both were delicious.

5) The Sunsets, warm weather and fresh air--
And sharing all that with Cindy.
20080323 Goa 025Sunset at the hotel the first night

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Goa'n on vacation

Blue skys, miles of sandy beaches, palm trees waving in the breeze, cocktails by the pool, and a villa with a private porch. Sounds like heaven. Almost- we had a few misadventures, but all in all it was an absolutely delightful time.

Arriving in Goa by air, you land at a small airport with no taxiway, so when the plane gets to the end of the runway, it turns around and goes back towards the terminal, pulling off to a side track for a short bit to let the next plane land. The planes outside the terminal were lined up, business was brisk. No photos as it is also a military airport and photos are prohibited. They open the door, and the humid air hits you like, well..., actually it didn't hit too hard. I expected worse, having traveled in Hawaii and Mexico as well.

Purple Apartments
Yellow HouseI think the first thing I noticed which was different from Bangalore was the riot of colors on the buildings-- Purples, yellows, pinks--nothing subdued. The pictures don't really do justice, but they give an idea, unfortunately they were taken through the window of the car. The airport, and ugly oil storage depot in Vasco is up on a plateau which appears to be fairly dry, but to get to the hotel, we dropped down into the plains, obviously river delta country, with Palms, rice paddies, and other greenery.
Palm's in the delta, seen from plateau above The other thing I noticed right away, is that there is construction everywhere. Goa is bursting with new buildings. The really interesting part is that they look like they are being built with Adobe (even multi story buildings), but they are actually being built with these bricks. 20080323 Goa 108 They are rock, cut from a quarry in the shape of large bricks. They seem to be very good building material as the church in downtown "Old Goa" is built out of the same rock and is pretty old.

Arriving at the hotel, after tearing down one lane roads with 2 directional traffic, it was wonderful to just relax in the sun and enjoy the flowers, and have a drink by the pool. They kept cut flowers by our room and replaced them every day or so. Flowers outside the hotel door There were of course flowers growing all over the grounds of the hotel, and several kinds of birds, even Cashews, but more about them later.

Maya had to study for midterms, which she told us were immediately when we returned, so we spend the first full day just doing nothing by the pool, well almost nothing. Cindy and I got in a lot of reading, swimming and relaxing, oh and Cindy also worked on her tan--well it was supposed to be a tan. Maya spent much of the day reading her texts and notes. Luckily she figured out by a day or 2 later that her tests were not till the end of the week after we came back, so she did have some more time to spend with us on our various adventures. Cindy has documented them pretty well,so I won't repeat all that.

I think my favorite part of the trip was to the spice plantation. We hired a taxi for the day and the taxi driver took us several places of our choosing. First we went to the plantation. We were greeted with a lovely lemongrass/ginger tea, all natural and organic. Once we had collected a group of about a dozen, we set off down a small trail, following our guide. The ground was very damp, even wet with puddles. This was the day before it rained, and they obviously kept it wet. The red earth was almost like a dark red soup in spots. Pepper GrowingWe learned about pepper, which is not a tree, but a vine. It starts out green, and can be harvested then in an unripened state. It ripens to red, which can be picked then. If dried, it is red pepper, if boiled and the skin removed, then it is white pepper. And if let to dry out black, becomes black pepper. We didn't get to see any cardamom growing, but learned that chewing 1 pod a day is good for depression. There was a cardamom plant, but no pods. Jack Fruit seemed to abound. Apparently they are related to the "stinky fruit" found in Malaysia or Viet Nam.Our guide next to the Jack Fruit This is our guide standing next to a Jack Fruit tree. She was very knowledgeable about the spices and what their uses (other than cooking) could be. We saw a Mace tree, which is also a Nutmeg tree, and we saw a Cinnamon tree, the leaves of which are also Bay Leaves. But most interesting to me was the brightly colored Cashew Apples. I knew that the Cashew grew one nut to a flower, but I didn't know that they are the only nut to grow outside of the fruit. The fruit is a bright yellow or orange. I didn't notice them anywhere at first, but then later as we were driving around, I saw them in many places along the road. The color is hard to miss. They also had them at the hotel, by the walk to the beach. 20080323 Goa 038 The cashews are harvested off the fruit, and are roasted to get the shell off. Then they crush the fruit, and ferment. It is then distilled into Feny. Still for FenyThere are 3 kinds of Feny locally in Goa, Coconut, Palm and Cashew. I've tried 2 of them, they are strong, and rather sweet. Not really my thing, but we picked up a bottle just for fun in Panjim later that day (or was it the next while on the tour?).

Somewhere along the way we got to watch how they climb the palm trees to collect the Betel Nuts, and how they swing from tree to tree. Unfortunately you have to turn your head sideways as I don't know how to rotate it. And walked back to the compound. The tour ended after we watched the elephant rides. Just before getting back to the lunch, there was one last stop. There was a bucketfull of cold water, with citronella in it. Each of us stepped up and a ladle full of water was poured down our backs, starting just above the neck. It was very refreshing, but startling. Everyone sort of jumped and stood up straight. I wish I had videos of this. Maya got a good picture of me and I hope she posts it soon.
Well, I've probably been Goan on long enough now, so I'll continue about the rest of our adventures another time.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

Short Post

Namaste.

Not a lot exciting has been happening. Cindy and I had a cultural introduction to India, provided by my company this week. Thankfully it cleared up some things we were curious about--i.e. wedding/party etiquette. We weren't sure whether it was going to be useful, but it was really great. We learned a few Hindi phrases. We also learned some about customs, colors, greetings...

Friday I got the show of a lifetime coming home. It took about an hour to come from the office, and it was dark as I didn't leave till 7. I noticed lights flashing around, and then figured out it was lightning. The lightning lasted the whole trip and longer. While I was being driven home, I could not hear the thunder, but the lightning was going almost constantly; mostly it went sideways, or sort of in circles. Absolutely amazing! Too bad inexpensive digital cameras don't have a manual setting for capturing things like lightning at night.

Then later in the evening Cindy and I were watching a movie, suddenly she says "It's going to rain, I can smell it" and it did. It rained hard for a little while, not long. Today it absolutely poured after Anna and I got home from our shopping trip this afternoon. The rain was coming down so hard that the top bedroom (the one which leaked before) sounded like someone was playing a snare drum on the roof. Fortunately I didn't detect any leaking either yesterday or today. The rain is great. It does make the air very humid, but it helps to cut down the air pollution which was getting pretty bad.

Today Anna and I had a shopping trip. Before leaving this morning Lahlita made Masala Dosas for breakfast. Last week when Cindy was sick, I stayed home and worked out of my home office for a day. Anna had previously mentioned that she wanted Dosas for breakfast sometime, so I asked Lahlita to make some this weekend. She was happy to oblige. They took a bit of preparation on her part, but they were delicious. She told us they were not quite so good as she had store flour rather than home ground and fermented. But they were still delicious. Fresh coconut and chili chutney, with spicy potatoes in the dosas, did I mention they were delicious. It is a good thing she doesn't cook for us all the time, I'd get fat just on breakfast. She insisted that I eat 2 of them, and then a plain dosa to cap it off with just the chutney. I couldn't turn her down! And she was just beaming with joy that we enjoyed them so much. Next she wants to make Idlis for us. I am looking forward to that. I must say, I think we're getting spoiled.

Bye for now

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Nandi Hills-lots of photos

We finally got out of the city yesterday. The Nandi hills are an outcropping of Rock 2008-03-01 Nandi Hills 036which reach out above the local Plateau about 50 Kilometers north of Bangalore (or at least the part we live in) , just a bit past where the new airport is going to be located. Another link. We left at a little before 11 in the morning, intending to leave earlier, but a certain sleepy teenager slowed us down at the start. The drive out started through the outskirts of Bangalore, looked very busy with development and industry. We passed a large quarry, more about that in another post. Close to the new airport there was a large construction site which was remarkable in a couple of ways. First there was a lot of large equipment, something you don't see too often here in and around Bangalore. Second, there were no women. In all the local construction, you see men and women, though they definitely have their own roles. Mostly the women seem to carry and move construction materials, i.e. sand, rocks, etc. Men do the actual constructing. Maybe in this case the women were replaced by the equipment. I believe this is an actual overcrossing/turnoff to the new airport. The current road is about 2K further and is a narrow dirt road.

Once past the Airport, things got really rural. All kinds of things were growing along the road, bananas, wheat, grapes, coconuts. 2008-03-01 Nandi Hills 039There were a couple of small villages we went through to get to the base of the hills. On the way we got to some spots where there were piles of what looked like straw on the road. It was obvious we were intended to drive over them. Then we asked the driver what was going on. He said that it was wheat. 2008-03-01 Nandi Hills 044We saw them winnowing the wheat along side of the road. I just love Indian creativity and innovation. Don't have a threshing machine, too expensive. Let the passing motorists do it for you. Why not, it is probably cleaner than having animals walking in circles on it to do same.

The road up to the top reminded us of the SF Bay Area, mixed with the Sierras. The grass was dry, the scrub was low, and the road was narrow and windy. The rock outcroppings looked like some of the big ones you see in Yosemite. The biggest difference was the Eucalyptus trees instead of Aspen. And then the Monkeys wouldn't have fit in back in CA. Anna remarked how the road reminded her of the road up to Hearst Castle. Very similar actually. And it led up to a castle, or fort, of sorts.

We arrived up top, and there were monkeys 2008-03-01 Nandi Hills 035everywhere, and dogs. Anna took some pictures of puppies with my camera and they are on my flickr site. The monkeys were obviously trying to steal food from the vendors and tourists. The vendors were using sling shots to scare them away from the stands. I spotted this one on top of the local police station. 2008-03-01 Nandi Hills 033

Once up top, we started wandering around by ourselves. We walked towards the very top where there was a closed building. Obviously the Sultan's house. 2008-03-01 Nandi Hills 006The gardens around were beautiful, with many kinds of flowers. Were followed by an old bow-legged man with a walking stick, not too clean clothes, and a knit cap on his head. I thought he was just begging so I ignored him, but he managed to engage Cindy and then offered to show us the temple etc, so we had a guide. He was very nice to Cindy, picking various plants and flowers for her along the way, even though this is prohibited. He spoke very little English, but managed to get his point across. He took us to Tipu Drop,01032008019 where there was an incredible view to the north, and almost straight down. The picture doesn't show the drop, but it is pretty steep. Several hundred meters of rock, then scrub. I certainly wouldn't want to fall down anywhere there. There was also a wall around the top of the hill. We had to drive through it to get in, didn't get a photo of that, but it was just wide enough for our car to fit through. There were also spots where you could get through a door in the wall and see the view. Here is one N/E view.01032008025
I tried to get Anna facing me in the picture, but my phone camera is too slow and when she saw that I was taking a picture, she turned around again. So you only get to see her backside.

Our guide took us to several other locations, one river source, which was all dried up. And we saw two temples. The Bull Temple is the most famous on the Nandi Hills. 01032008029 As you can see, it is covered in grease (which we think is Ghee) and flowers. It is a bit of a crude statue, which is typical of the Chola style. I have more pictures of the bull on Flickr. The temple went up, and into the rock behind the bull. It was possible to go in a small door on the side, about 4 meters up the hill. 01032008027Our guide didn't join us because he had trouble walking on the hills. I spotted several carvings in the rocks. I captured this one to share.

I would like to leave the post with this. We saw many flowering trees, and often they had no leaves, just flowers. This is one particularly beautiful example.
01032008022